Published at Friday, August 31st, 2018 - 21:44:06 PM. . By Aurelia Beaty.
Remember, on a top mounted adjustment turn your allen wrench clockwise to tighten the neck and straighten it, or counter clockwise to loosen it and curve the neck. On heel adjustments its the exact opposite! The more curved the neck the higher the strings will be from the fingerboard, the straighter the neck the closer. On a fretless neck you want the action to be as low as possible to allow for the pleasant buzzy "Mmmwah" sound. It is possible to set the action too low in which the "mmmahh" will be squelched. A good indication of where your neck is at is either a buzz at the first 5 frets which indicates a neck that is too straight or a buzz at the 7th fret and up which indicates a neck that is too curved. Holding the bass at eye level against a strong light and looking at the very edge of the fingerboard will indicate the status of the neck curvature. You want to set your neck as straight as possible until you get buzzes on or about the 5th fret or lower, then back the neck off with quarter turns until the buzzes go away.
Once I chose a color I coated the body with MinWax Pre-Stain. This water-based compound fills in the pours of uneven hard woods and allows for a more uniform and even stain across the whole body. Please make sure to always follow the directions on the can for best results! After drying I started to stain the body. Again, I can not stress how important it is to work in a safe and well ventilated area. While it maybe temping to do this in a more comfortable area, you don't want to expose yourself to fumes and suffer the side effects! I hung and finished the body in my apartment patio closet which was perfect for shelter and ventilation. Remember, if you find a coat is unacceptable you can always sand it away with a low grit sandpaper. However, it will require the same low to high sanding process, and if your not careful it the sanding can erode angles and curves.
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