Published at Friday, August 31st, 2018 - 22:29:44 PM. . By Zendaya Foust.
Remember, on a top mounted adjustment turn your allen wrench clockwise to tighten the neck and straighten it, or counter clockwise to loosen it and curve the neck. On heel adjustments its the exact opposite! The more curved the neck the higher the strings will be from the fingerboard, the straighter the neck the closer. On a fretless neck you want the action to be as low as possible to allow for the pleasant buzzy "Mmmwah" sound. It is possible to set the action too low in which the "mmmahh" will be squelched. A good indication of where your neck is at is either a buzz at the first 5 frets which indicates a neck that is too straight or a buzz at the 7th fret and up which indicates a neck that is too curved. Holding the bass at eye level against a strong light and looking at the very edge of the fingerboard will indicate the status of the neck curvature. You want to set your neck as straight as possible until you get buzzes on or about the 5th fret or lower, then back the neck off with quarter turns until the buzzes go away.
With the help of the installed pickup springs turn a phillips head screw driver to move the pickup up or down. Moving the pickup higher or up towards the strings will yield a louder over all tone. Moving it away or down from the strings will result in a quieter volume. You want to strike a balance between the two which I find can be done by making your pickups like a ramp. You want to give the lower E and A strings plenty of room to vibrate so keep that end of the pickup just a bit lower, while making the D and G string side just a tad higher. It shouldn't be extreme but all the strings need to clear the pickup otherwise the case for the pickup itself will get scratched and the sound of your fingers hitting the top of the pickup will make an unwanted "thump" sound, that is unless you want that thump sound.
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