By Sarah Broughton. Electric Bass Guitar. Published at Friday, August 31st, 2018 - 10:53:32 AM.
considers itself the leading source of professional diagnostic information. They offer full diagnostic flow charts of automotive electrical systems. Their charts offer both system and component perspectives. I found a great site for individual systems that covered all American made cars from 1985 to 2009. Wiringdiagram.com breaks it down by system, such as headlights, computer data lines and AC systems. Their individualized charts start at $5.99. They also offer information on 1960-1984 models starting at $6.99
P-Bass pickups are split coil type of pickup. The two coils are wired in series, in most cases. However, you can wire them in parallel too, which will make the sound brighter, with less bass. The recommended wiring practice is to wire them in series so that the coils are out-of-phase with each other. This practice causes the pickup to become a hum-bucking (hum-canceling) pickup coil. The advantage in this practice, is to make it immune to outside electrical noise, which is a great plus for any bass. Of course, you can change the pickup wiring to single coil with these, by switching the wiring on one of the coils. Usually, the coils come with color coded wire connected to the coil terminals. Some coils use Red and Black, while others use White and Black.
Once the body is finished, drill holes (if needed) and assemble the body with electronics and hardware. I find after years of soldering iron burns and melted wires, as well as a trip or two to the hospital from solder fumes, that the same well vented area is needed as well as pre-assembling of the pots to the control plate be done outside and separate from the bass body itself. You want everything to be finish and connected that way the only thing left to solder will be the ground cord and pickup wires. I would also recommend buying a Jazz Bass electronic kit.
Intonation of a lined fingerboard is done in the same way as a fretted. Hook up your tuner to your bass and play the open G string in tune. Fret directly on the 12th and check to see if your fretted note is in tune. Carefully make sure that you are using the tip of your finger avoiding any kind of fingertip pivot that will change your pitch. While this is a great technique while playing, in tuning and setup its not going to do you any favors. Now if the fretted note is sharp, turn the adjustment screw on the bridge so the saddle is moving towards you. If it is flat move the saddle away from you. Do small quarter turns and bring the string back up to tune before you check it. Once the fretted note is intonated repeat the process with the other three. One thing to keep in mind is that while the fret lines are right where the frets should be, it doesn't mean that all of the lines are in tune 100% all over the neck.
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