Published at Friday, August 31st, 2018 - 22:26:19 PM. . By Sarah Broughton.
Now, everybody is different, some say don't clip the string, some say do, but I find that keeping about 3 to 5 windings on every post will ensure a secure hold. I do this by using my wire cutters as a measuring tool. I match the full length of the wire cutters with the bass strings, then I put the tip of the handle of the wire cutters on the tuning post and mark my fingers at the tip of the head of the pliers, then clip. This ensures that each string is cut at the same length and allows you to take them off and store them if needed.
The neck, the soul of a bass! For this bass I'm going with a maple neck and a walnut lined maple fingerboard. I like the brightness of the maple and the crazy glue epoxy finish (more on that in another section). Normally, a maple neck tends to get all gunked up with finger oil and dirt because maple tends to soil easily, however with an epoxy finish I will not need to worry about that. Again like the body, you want to make the neck smooth and supple! A 400 grit rub down with the grain works great but make sure (and I can't stress this enough) to not press hard. I order my necks unfinished so I can color and finish it anyway I want (which we will in this tutorial with Tru-Oil) plus it's way cheaper (about $50 to $80 dollars more) which really makes a huge difference especially when you are on a budget and who's not these days! Just like the body it is important to let the neck hang between coats in a well ventilated area. You will finish the neck much like the body. Use a rag and rub in small circles with the finish covering the sections of the neck. Let the neck dry an hour at a time and buff lightly with with steel wool. Again you are aiming for about 10 to 15 coats. Like on the body,
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