Published at Friday, August 31st, 2018 - 23:42:20 PM. . By Anastasia Mace.
Remember, on a top mounted adjustment turn your allen wrench clockwise to tighten the neck and straighten it, or counter clockwise to loosen it and curve the neck. On heel adjustments its the exact opposite! The more curved the neck the higher the strings will be from the fingerboard, the straighter the neck the closer. On a fretless neck you want the action to be as low as possible to allow for the pleasant buzzy "Mmmwah" sound. It is possible to set the action too low in which the "mmmahh" will be squelched. A good indication of where your neck is at is either a buzz at the first 5 frets which indicates a neck that is too straight or a buzz at the 7th fret and up which indicates a neck that is too curved. Holding the bass at eye level against a strong light and looking at the very edge of the fingerboard will indicate the status of the neck curvature. You want to set your neck as straight as possible until you get buzzes on or about the 5th fret or lower, then back the neck off with quarter turns until the buzzes go away.
All the parts separately would cost a lot more, but for about 18 bucks you get them all plus instructions and trust me, wiring a jazz bass is very very easy! I will go into this in more detail in the electronics section of the website to help clear things up. Another thing I like to do helps) is to line every part of the inside of the bass with copper foil tape. This helps to ensure that even if wires do come loose they will be grounded and shielded. This also helps prevent hums picked up from lighting and other electronic devices ( lights and certain electronic devices emit a 60 cycle hum that interfere with pickups and bass electronics). Now that everything is sealed, grounded and assembled its time to move to the neck.
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