Published at Friday, August 31st, 2018 - 23:05:55 PM. . By Aurelia Beaty.
Now that the neck has the right relief its time to adjust the bridge. The bridge holds the important setup factors such as intonation and string height. While the neck curvature determines string height, the bridge saddles will give you a finer adjustment and allow you to lower your action even lower and match the curvature of the fingerboard. This allows you to intonate or tune the bass with itself. Keep in mind that all the adjustment you do at the bridge will knock your strings out of tune so have a tuner handy to bring the string back to pitch whenever you adjust something. This way you know how the correct playing tension will feel when the setup is complete.
Remember, on a top mounted adjustment turn your allen wrench clockwise to tighten the neck and straighten it, or counter clockwise to loosen it and curve the neck. On heel adjustments its the exact opposite! The more curved the neck the higher the strings will be from the fingerboard, the straighter the neck the closer. On a fretless neck you want the action to be as low as possible to allow for the pleasant buzzy "Mmmwah" sound. It is possible to set the action too low in which the "mmmahh" will be squelched. A good indication of where your neck is at is either a buzz at the first 5 frets which indicates a neck that is too straight or a buzz at the 7th fret and up which indicates a neck that is too curved. Holding the bass at eye level against a strong light and looking at the very edge of the fingerboard will indicate the status of the neck curvature. You want to set your neck as straight as possible until you get buzzes on or about the 5th fret or lower, then back the neck off with quarter turns until the buzzes go away.
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